There’s a place very close to my hotel called ‘The Morning Market’ and it’s a city block with dozens of shops selling fresh seafood. Most of them have tanks full of live animals that you can buy and have cooked (or served raw) right on the spot. It’s a bit overwhelming to be honest ; I’ve never seen so many live crabs!
Hakodate is a squid-eaters paradise, and you can fish one up yourself at any one of a dozen or more places, and they’ll prep it for you right in front of you. Grilled or raw: your choice!
The squid’s are cute, and I’ll be honest I found the entire spectacle a little sad. But I say this on the same day I ate beef and chicken so who am I to judge?
Afterwards I walked about a half hour south to Mount Hakodate at the end of the city. A ropeway took me to the top where the views were astounding.
Apparently this is one of the best views in Japan, and even better at night. I very much doubt I’ll see the night view (I turn into a pumpkin early these days) but I was more than happy with the day version!
You can see the entire city, with the beach on the east and the bay on the west. These photos hardly convey how good visibility was, and certainly don’t reveal how hot it was on top!
Indeed, I had a coat in my backpack because I had read it can be chilly at the top but it was quite a bit warmer and humid than at the bottom, and even 30 seconds outdoors on the viewing platform was enough to get the sweat running!
There were a few restaurants and souvenir shops at the top (and a working radio station) and I also saw this little diorama box. I’ve seen a few others like this during this trip, and they’re usually placed near gacha machines. The idea is to buy a gacha that is some sort of figure, then you can take a photo of them in the diorama for social media. This one specifically says to put stuffed animals in, but I watched two girls take photos of Demon Slayer characters they had just pulled from a gacha. Maybe I should use one of these?
I had originally decided to do the mountain today and Goryokaku tomorrow but rain is forecast so I moved the park forward. It was too far to work in todays heat (it reached 29C/84F with 90% humidity) so I hopped on a city tram. There’s only one route and it’s a bit slow, but in the absence of a subway it’s a handy way to get between tourist spots.
Shortly after getting off the tram I reached my second destination: Goryokaku Tower. There wasn’t much of a wait before I was on the observation level and took this photo:
That is Goryokaku Park, a star-shaped fort built about 150 years ago that is now a public park. Once again the view was better in person than in the photo, and it’s remarkable to appreciate how scenic this fort is when that was hardly a motive for its construction!
That’s the view from the same tower in the southern direction, showing the mountain with the observatory that I had up earlier in the day. As you can see Hakodate is very flat, and the views of the city from both the mountain and the tower were great.
The tower had a small glass floor section, and the vast majority of visitors did their best to not step on it! I like these, and would like an observation towers where all the walls and floor were transparent!
The day was still young when I descended the tower and headed into the park, and I had an open afternoon. I perhaps foolishly decided I’d walk to a bookstore I had heard was good (it was!) but this ended up being too much walking for such a very hot and humid day, and afterwards I was more ruined than any point so far on this trip. Luckily I found a taxi and was able to revitalize in the hotel onsen before my hit points reached -10.
Speaking of the hotel baths, they’re great. Not only is there a hot bath, but also a cold one and a sauna. The sauna is so hot I’d probably pass out if I went in, and the cold bath is so cold I’d get hypothermia so I’m settling for boiling myself in the hot bath. It’s not as fancy as Ichinobo, but I’m an unsophisticated onsen fan and I’m happy. (Image from the hotel website.)
As I said it will probably rain tomorrow, so I’m happy I got these two viewing platforms out of the way. There’s other historic things to see, and even if the rain becomes heavy I’ve got a few others activities in mind for tomorrow as well…