Category: Trip

The Secret 8th Hell: 760 Wild Monkeys

It was snowing when I headed out for a McBreakfast this morning. Let’s skip over the fact that I’d paid $$$ for the high-end hotel breakfast and enjoy the nice photo of the street outside the hotel. It was snowing as I walked, and it only got worse as I sat inside and ate.

Kristin incidentally was enjoying the high-end hotel breakfast we’d paid for two of. She said the lemon jelly was particularly good!

The ryokan we stayed in was lovely, with a very cozy room and nice hot baths. But it’s time to move on once again and after we checked out we headed for a nature park I’d discovered when we arrived a couple of days ago: Takasakiyama Natural Zoo.

Let’s cut right to the chase: this is a place with 760 wild – no cages or fences – monkeys. They live on the mountain and come down for food and to eat look at tourists.

They mostly ignored us and groomed themselves or squabbled or just ran around. They were everywhere, and it felt like half of them were babies. I was amazed how close they came to us, almost as if they didn’t even see us.

They’re Japanese macaques, and they were fairly small, with the biggest only being about as big as a medium sized dog. We were told not to make eye contact or try to touch them since if you do they might kill you jump on you!

They were cute little buggers, with expressive and wizened faces. I think the one above looks a bit like Jim.

And this baby – not much bigger than a kitten – looks like my uncle John.

It was cold on the mountain but we hardly noticed so entranced we were by the army of mankillers monkeys hopping around. But, as it does, the existential dread associated with all monkey exposure eventually overcame us so we fled the mountain and sought refuge in a giant aquarium across the street.

This place – Umitamago (‘sea egg’) was great! It had many different species on display in beautiful tanks, and interesting shows including a demonstration of archerfish and an electric eel:

Japan does aquariums-as-art well, and while that was hardly the focus of this one many displays were mesmerizing like this sardine school:

Or this cutlass fish that just floated vertically and nearly motionless:

And of course the jellyfish:

It was super busy, which again surprised me since it’s winter, but I suppose the very cold air outside today drove everyone indoors.

That room looked like it was in a spaceship or exotic submarine. The architecture of the entire building was unusual.

The walrus show was good, and mostly based around the beast making noises I never knew walruses could make (like whistling).

And the dolphin show was a crowd pleaser and included Japanese dolphins I’d not seen before. Overall the aquarium was fun, and perhaps the best I’ve been to in Japan.

As I write this I’m in the boarding area about to board this ferry. We’ll sleep on this tonight, and wake up in Osaka! Tomorrow I’ll tell you all about it πŸ™‚

The Seven Hells Of Beppu (Part 2)

We continued our tour of the hells (jigoku) today, starting with one that featured bubbling mud pools.

This place shared a car park with one we visited yesterday but they were so different! Called ‘Monk Hell’, the pools in this one were fascinating to watch due to the intricate patterns made in the mud by the escaping steam.

We both enjoyed this one a lot, having never seen anything like it before. They also had a footbath which – since we were early – hadn’t yet become inundated by tourists so KLS had a little soak:

We don’t know what the citrus were for…

The next hell, ‘Kamado Hell’ has two pools of unusually light blue water. This one is called ‘Furnace Hell’ since it has the hottest water at just under 100 Celsius.

The blue is caused by minerals in the water and apparently can change with the weather! This hell was extremely popular, possibly since they sold hot food.

A lot of the hells talk about the therapeutic effects of their steam/heat/water and this one even let you suck directly from the nose of an oni (demon) to breath in the steam πŸ™‚

We had to catch a bus to get to the last two hells, and this one is called ‘Blood Hell’ due to the redness of the mud.

If you look toward the back of the water you’ll see it gets darker. This is where the depth dramatically increases to more than 30m, from which the hot water emerges.

This hell was very nicely presented, and had a massive souvenir shop. I think this was my favourite since it was pretty and not as inundated with tourists as some of the others.

The final hell – ‘Tornado Hell’ – was right next door. It’s by far the smallest of the seven, and consists of a single geyser which erupts about every half hour. We sat with a crowd of others and waited, and I’d say it was worth it even considering the cold.

The cap placed over the geyser was to limit the height and the announcer said it would exceed 30 m if unrestrained! Neither of us had seen a geyser before so this was fun.

And thus ends the tour of the seven Beppu hells. If you’re wondering about the term, it’s because historically the heat and bubbling mud reminded the people (in those days) of Hell and the term stuck.

After the hells we caught a bus into Beppu city and walked along the beach a little. Most shops were closed due to it being New Years, but we found a swan sunning herself.

Our goal was Beppu Tower, a TV tower built in the middle of the city back in the 1950s. It strongly resembled Nagano tower which we went up last year.

The tower was well maintained and inexpensive and the views were good. Can you see the swan on the beach in the above photo?

There was a sign advertising a stamp rally of 20 towers all around Japan. To my amusement I’d been up about half of them already. Wouldn’t be fun to complete that stamp rally?

Before returning to the onsen area where we are staying, we made sure to pick up some seasickness medicine just in case. More on that later…

Dinner was steamed food (veggies, noodles and potstickers) at a restaurant that used the hot spring steam for cooking. Part of the experience was ‘cooking’ yourself and the above pic shows KLS lowering the baskets of food into the infernal steam. The food was delicious; Do this if you ever visit Beppu!

The Seven Hells of Beppu (Part 1)

We left Kobe early on the above Shinkansen. It took us west along the southern coast of Honshu (the main Japanese island) until we crossed onto Kyushu (the southwest island) and switched to this train:

This was called the ‘Sonic’ and was not only very comfy (in the Green Car) but due to the large windows had a lovely view as we headed to our destination.

And that was Beppu, a famous onsen town on the east coast of Kyushu. We’re here to soak in hot springs again, to see some sights, and to ride a ferry. More about that last one in a few days.

The foremost tourist attraction in Beppu is ‘The Seven Hells’, a series of natural springs that have attracted visitors for over a century. Over these next two days we plan to view them all.

The first hell – called jigoku here – we visited is near our ryokan (traditional hotel), and the first thing you see is a large pool with steam venting out one side.

The city sits on a vast network of underground springs. Geothermal heat turns rainwater into steam which vents out of the ground and is used for heating and cooking. The city is very famous for this, and almost everywhere you look steam is visible rising into the air.

That’s a photo from the car park of our hotel, looking onto a residence. Imagine living with that giant steam chimney in your backyard!

As mentioned some of the hells are very touristy, and we were surprised to see the first one had an aquarium (I use the term lightly) with Amazon fish in it! Why? Who knows!

That’s a photo of the pool at the second jigoku we visited. This one is known for crocodiles, but when you enter you’re immediately cloaked in a dense cloud of steam venting around the pool.

As for the crocodiles, a sign explains the steam pressure was very high and was somehow good for breeding crocodiles?! They have a large amount of pens containing them, including some of the biggest I’ve seen.

It’s not the most humane treatment of these beasts since the enclosures are all just concrete pits, but the crocodiles seem healthy (one lived to 79!) and well fed. Apparently they have over 70 beasts, and on weekends when they are fed the place can be extremely busy.

Incidentally, even though it’s New Year’s Eve and winter these hells are busy enough! We’d read winter was a good time to visit since crowds were lighter. If that’s true I’d hate to see Summer πŸ™‚

The next jigoku was named Umi, or ‘sea’ and is one of the more famous ones due to the naturally light blue water.

This one was very popular, with a large car park and a long stream of visitors. We bought the ‘jigoku tour’ ticket which gets us into all seven so we don’t have to line up for each one.

Incidentally look at the first photo of this hell, specifically the lower left corner. See that stick going into the water? Here’s a closer look:

That’s a cage of eggs being boiled! Of course Kristin purchased one:

It was too hot to hold when she got it and difficult to peel but she said it was good.

Umi Jigoku is very picturesque, with Tori gates and lovely landscaping. They also have costumed mascots, a large gift store, a foot bath and even this mysterious tiny dark red pool:

None of these famous ‘hell’ pools can be used for bathing since they are either too hot or too rich with chemicals. They’re just for looking πŸ™‚

They’re also surprisingly close, and the three we saw today were only brief walks from each other. Tomorrow we’ll conclude the tour with the other seven.

As mentioned we’re staying in a ryokan style hotel with several springs and meals provided. Dinner was kaiseki, which is a multi-course Japanese fine dining meal.

It was a ludicrous amount of food, mostly in small portions, containing sashimi and hot pot and steamed food and many other things.

Much of it wasn’t for me, but even if it were I wouldn’t have been able to eat it all since it was just too much. I suppose you plan for such a meal in advance and go with an empty belly.

It took about 2 hours for all the courses to be served, after which we had soak in the rooftop open-air bath and then I ate a second dinner or snacks and cotton candy πŸ™‚

Now it’s time to watch New Year’s TV. Will we stay awake to see in 2026? Doubtful…