Nakano

It’s the age-old question : “What’s better, Akihabara or Nakano Broadway?” Obviously speaking generally the answer is Akiba due to the gargantuan amount of shops, but if you want to find truly rare or obscure items a day at Nakano can’t be beat. That’s what I did yesterday.

As usual I was up with the birds, and since the 30+ Mandarake shops at Nakano don’t open until noon I killed time in a gourmet restaurant and game centers. Which brings me to my first Nakano tip: get their early and decide on which shops you were most interested before they open. Ideally you’ll want to be out of there before the hordes of clueless tourists arrive mid-afternoon. For me yesterday, the ‘TRPG’ shop, the game shop, the trading card shop, the vintage manga shop and the art book shop were the ones I was most interested in.

Nakano isn’t just otaku shops by the way; it’s also home to over 20 high-end watch stores. I saw a few watches costing more than a car, but given some shops have guards and security screens at the doors even when they’re open I imagine there’s watches costing more than houses there as well!

Which brings me to my second Nakano tip: bring money. Lots of it. If you want affordable anime/otaku stuff get it in Akihabara or Ikebukuro. If you’re after treasures to complete your collection open your wallet at Nakano!

Almost every time I’ve blogged about Nakano I show the above shop since it’s so visually amazing. Here’s a photo taken inside:

And another:

The mind boggles how many individual items this shop has, or how you’d even find anything? Rows of glass cases filled with tiny little toys and figures, and endless plastic tubs full of little books or cards or postcards. I always pull out a few for a quick look (“Maybe I’ll send myself one of these 1970s Ultraman postcards.”) and then put it right back when I see the cost (usually ¥1000 or more). There’s a few shops like this in Nakano, and it’s one of the reasons I love the place.

The above is another one, perhaps catering more to the modern anime/toy fan. At first you notice familiar franchises, but then you see the prices: ¥40,000 for a Dragonball figure or ¥8,000 for a Doraemon shopping bag?!? Almost every time I visit Nakano I see westerners walking around with a mix of amazement and dismay on their faces: “Who buys this?” they’re thinking, as I brush past them in a narrow aisle with a bag of overpriced stuff under my arm 🙂

I got some grail items yesterday (and soon enough I’ll be showcasing some here on this blog) but I also let one or two get away. Notable amongst them were some boxed R2D2 figures which would have been great in my embryonic (for now) boxed R2 collection. The above metal R2 (from 1977) tempted me once, twice and even a third time before my attention was taken by something in the case just below it. But I still wish I had bought it, which brings me to my third Nakano tip: Just buy it. Don’t waste time deliberating or counting costs; just buy it. If you don’t, you’ll regret it later.

Incidentally the staff yesterday was immensely helpful. Not once but twice did people go ‘to the warehouse’ to (attempt to) retrieve items for this curious collector, and in two stores other staff members spoke good English and gave me some interesting perspectives on items I’ve been looking for. Which brings me to my final Nakano tip: If you ever have the dumb idea of collecting all the games in a series, don’t ever ever decide on Wizardry. It’s a fools errand! 🙂

So as I love to do, let’s see some other weird and wonderful items I saw yesterday at Nakano:

The above is a nearly 50-year old issue of a weekly manga magazine. It’s so expensive (~$700) since it’s in incredible condition and features a full length Osamu Tezuka story.

For about the same price you could buy just one single trading card. Sure it’s sparkly and gold-foiled, but given this was in a ‘rental cube’ I half wonder if whoever owned it and put it here for sale is just having a laugh. The series it’s from isn’t even popular any more! Surely there’s no one that would consider buying this?

One of the Mandarake shops had a cabinet full of Beyblade, which is the kids game involving battling tops against each other. Before you ask “Does anyone actually collect Beyblade?” understand that Mandarake wouldn’t sell them if people didn’t, and marvel that one of them was about $250!

The above is a 1984 board/card game ‘Treasure of The Labyrinth’ which seems to have an Indiana Jones inspiration and has beautiful art. If I had grown up in Japan I bet I would have played this one!

And this tiny little thing – for about $70 – was sold at the ‘candy toy’ shop. It’s a tin ‘western television’ so tiny it would easily sit on the tip of your pinky finger. I just love that someone found it and sold it to Mandarake and that presumably it will end up in a collection. Items like this one I find particularly interesting because it suggests that Mandarake is a store that sets prices rather than looks them up. Many times I’ve seen stuff for sale that (probably) no other store has ever had and I wonder if Mandarake just rolls a die to determine a price or if they have an extensive network of expert appraisers: somewhat like an ‘antiques roadshow of weird toys and anime merchandise’? Knowing Japan, probably the latter.

I filled my bag yesterday to the point of barely even being able to carry it and staggered ‘home’ (I’ve settled into my room by now) before shortly thereafter heading right back out to Akiba for an early gourmet dinner:

I did even more shopping, played some games, people watched and eventually – since I’d forgotten my umbrella – ran through a heavy rainstorm to get back to the hotel.

It had been exactly the sort of day I was hoping from this trip 🙂

Shinjuku

I visited the Tokyo Metropolitan Government building this morning. It has a free observatory on the 45th floor, and you know I like observatories!

The view wa clear enough (in some directions) when I was up there, but this wouldn’t last. By the time I descended and walked to the shopping district near the station (a few blocks from the tower) the skies had opened and the rain fell in sheets. I took shelter in the House of Grimace:

Incidentally the marks on my nose and left cheek are from a mask. I estimate about 50% of Japanese still wear masks outdoors, and even more do indoors or on trains. I’ve joined them (mostly out of respect) but I’ll be honest and say the humidity isn’t pleasant when you’re masked!

It was still raining after I finished lunch, so I went into Yodobashi Camera (the Shinjuku branch included about ten shops spread over several blocks) and took refuge – alone! – in an upper floor arcade where I played a card-based Ultraman game for about half an hour. This was blissful since I didn’t get much sleep last night (due to waking early for laundry) and the AC in the arcade was sweet relief from the humidity outside.

The rest of the day was shopping, with a focus on gacha machines and UFO catchers. As I’ve discussed before on this blog gacha’s are everywhere in Tokyo, and stumbling upon a sight like the above is hardly unusual. The variety beggars belief as well, and there’s something for everyone. Here’s some examples I saw today:

How about a weird ‘floor plan’ (?) gacha? Or a ‘calling bell’ that they suggest can be used to summon a pet? Or a mini cart and groceries? Or – and this one is incredible – recipes handwritten by a handsome young man? (Yes this is correct; KLS and I purchased something similar in January which was a small piece of paper with a message about hard work handwritten on it!)

Or you could get a mini appliance, a device that (claims to) protect you from EM radiation, a mini-zip line or even a sangria mascot. This is just 8 of hundreds of different machines I’ve seen this trip, and not even the most unusual. I’m not putting the truly crazy stuff here so as not to spoil souvenirs for KLS 🙂

I’ve been unlucky with crane games this trip, and not for lack of trying. The prizes range from trash (mini food items that cost less to buy than you pay trying to win them) to exceptional (large and very detailed anime figurines) but the machines remain frustratingly difficult and that’s not even accounting for sunk-cost fallacy which all-too-often rears its head.

I’ve become good at spotting the ‘avalanche’ machines ready to pay out, and so far I’m on a 100% win streak! The above prize I’ll give to a student (who’s name is Kirby), but some of the other wins will be pride of place on shelves at home for many years.

The rain didn’t last long this morning but it dumped enough water to make the afternoon shockingly humid. Today was probably the most strenuous day of this trip so far, and I even saw Japanese struggling with the humidity. But I managed – due to imbibing vast quantities of water – and ultimately had an enjoyable day of looking and shopping and eating. Tomorrow will be more of the same 🙂

Shinagawa

I awoke ruined and a shell of my former self. I suspected a ‘light activity’ was needed, and when I stepped out to get some breakfast the incredibly humidity only affirmed this suspicion. So I went to see some fish!

I visited Maxell Aqua Park in Shinagawa, a district of Tokyo about a half hour south of my hotel. This (not really an?) aquarium has various marine animals on display but is mostly known for its dolphin show. Specific to my situation today, it was entirely indoors and the air conditioning was wonderful!

The usual types of fish and other sea life was to be seen, and most of the displays were creative and clean. They had a wonderful jellyfish section as well as a sort of pseudo amazon environment which had capybara and the biggest arowana I’ve ever seen (bigger than me)!

Unfortunately… some of the enclosures left a lot to be desired. As an entirely indoor facility the question arises whether these animals (such as the capybaras or seal) ever see sunlight, much less plants, and my enjoyment in seeing them was undoubtedly affected by my wish they were free. It’s a difficult quandary of all zoos: it’s fun to see the animals, but is it fun for them?

The above pic shows a penguin repeatedly trying to hop onto the leg of a cleaner. She (the cleaner) had to hold her arm to stop the penguin but once or twice the little bird got through. I think it thought the employee was its mum? It was endearing to watch, and it was obvious the cleaner was tolerant and careful in her handling of the excitable bird. I read online this park is known for the care it shows for its animals; I just wish the enclosures were more natural.

The main attraction was the dolphin show, which was about 20 minutes long and featured five dolphins of different species (one was gigantic… was it even a dolphin?) doing impressive tricks with their trainers. The auditorium was impressive and could seat over 1000, although half or them would be in the splash zone… and these dolphins were relentless about splashing people!

I greatly enjoyed this show. Once again I was hesitant at first since I’d rather they had the entire ocean as their playground, but as performers they were flawless and they seemed to have fun as they jumped to incredible heights and dazzled the crowd with their antics. Maxell Aqua Park wasn’t the biggest aquarium I’ve ever visited, and it certainly wasn’t the best, but the dolphin show alone made it worthwhile.

Shinawaga isn’t too far away by train from a famous covered shopping street, so after the Aqua Park I headed over to the ‘Palm’ arcade for some lunch. At nearly 600m long, this is a once street converted to a pedestrian arcade and now roofed. There’s loads of shops and restaurants, and many are of the ‘mom and pop’ style, so it’s very different from the usual mall.

It also had a ‘Kura Sushi’, which is the sushi conveyor belt restaurant KLS and I ate at in Kyoto earlier this year. This is the place where you get a chance at a prize from a gacha machine for each five plates you eat, and naturally I wanted to try again to win a prize.

Long story short: I didn’t win and walked out stuffed with shrimp tempura sushi! It was fantastically delicious (and very inexpensive) but I still don’t know what’s in the capsules if you win a prize!

It was a low impact but fun day (and I didn’t mention the post-dinner Akiba shopping). I successfully recharged while dodging the heat and humidity, and I’m all set to go go go again tomorrow 🙂