Back to Tokyo

June 6th, 2017

Yesterday we took the bullet train back to Tokyo.

Our hotel room for the last four nights is impossibly luxurious, with six separate rooms including a full sized sauna and patio with hot tub!

In the afternoon we toiled around Ikebukuro and Ueno for some shopping and game-centering πŸ™‚

Three more full days in Tokyo! Today we’re off (finally!) to Akihabara…

The Fox Shrine

June 5th, 2017

Fushimi-Inari shrine, about 10 minutes SE of Kyoto by train, starts off impressively. Directly across the street from the station is a large and lavish complex of temples at the foot of Mt Inari, named for the Japanese rice god. Walk through this complex and you’ll quickly see a path leading past some smaller shrines heading up the mountain. You can’t miss it, since it’s lined with gigantic red tori gates.

These gates are used to denote entrances to shrines or sacred spaces, and the entire mountain is considered sacred, with tens of thousands of tiny shrines dotted all over it and allegedly about 10,000 torii lining the paths.

For certain lengths closer to the bottom, the density of gates is so high it seems you are walking through a hall. The vibrant reds shine in the sunlight and it’s all a bit magical. We went early, to beat the crowds, else photos like the ones I took would be impossible.

The messenger of Inari (the god) is the fox, and virtually every shrine – from the big to the small – feature carved foxes. Look closely and you’ll see an item in their mouths: that’s a key to Inari’s rice granary.

The path winds and twists its way around and up the mountain, occasionally passing by residences that double as souvenir shops and cafes.

Sometimes the path led through areas with great concentrations of smaller shrines that have the appearance almost of a western graveyard.

There’s not a lot of English signage so I can’t explain much of this, but we did learn that the tori themselves have been erected over hundreds of years (over 500 actually) by businesses or families for prosperity and the trend continues today. It’s not cheap to have one erected (up to $13000) but if you do your name will be displayed on the reverse.

While it was early and the temperature comfortable, the walk was still strenuous. Most people walk up to where the path splits, which takes about an hour, and then have an ice cream or rest and return. We pushed on to the summit, and it was during that leg that the challenge increased dramatically!

Closer to the top it just became endless uneven steps! After almost two hours of walking already this was agony, but we eventually made it to the top (alone, since almost no one goes that far!) and we’re proud we did.

While only 233 m, and not a particularly long hike, it was the stairs coupled with the exhaustion from the tip so far that made it such a challenge for us. Well rested, I’d say it would be a tiring but not overly difficult hike.

The shrine neve closes, and you can actually hike all the way to the top at night! This would be simultaneously fascinating and terrifying (signs warn of dangerous boars!) but I’d love to do it, and can only imagine what it’s like from this instant photo someone had left at the base of one gate:

There’s a very good reason Fushimi Inari is one of the most popular destinations in all of Japan. It combines the sort of ancient reverence of the great European cathedrals with astonishingly beautiful scenery and we’ll remember it forever.

Walking Tour

June 4th, 2017

Yesterday we took a 35000 step 9 hour walking tour of Kyoto. Starting from our hotel (adjacent to the station) we first visited Higashi temple, said to have the biggest wooden building in the world:

This was followed by Nijo castle, which had an exceptional audio guide that over two hours told us all we wanted to know about the 400-year-old castle:

In the afternoon we hit the (famous) shopping district with its endless covered streets that shaded us from the sun.

We saw everything from gold poop statues…

To grilled sparrow…

To Japanese girls in kimono playing UFO catchers…

Plus we bought a giant duffle bag for the return trip; absolutely necessary due to how stuffed our cases had become πŸ™‚

Bonus Post: The Incredible Model Toilet

June 3rd, 2017

Yesterday in a ‘retro candy’ shop we saw this:

A toilet model kit for under US$3? Naturally I had to buy it. Here’s the contents:

Looks like we got the ‘cute boy’ version (there are four randomly packed in the box). Here’s detail of the toilet parts still on the runners:

And here’s the assembled toilet:

He’s a charming guy isn’t he? Even better, he’s not just for looks: he has a function!

You pour in crystals from the packet, then add a bit of water and a magical thing happens:

Yes my friends, toilet-boy turns those crystals and water into a delicious foam that you can sip through a straw right from his bowl:

KLS tried it! Here’s her reaction:

It was, she said, an “evil banana” flavour πŸ™‚

Here’s a final shot of toilet-boy presented in his diorama (cut from the box) with a full bowl of pleasure waiting for a lucky sipper:

I can’t guarantee we’ll see these things for sale again, but if you like what you see here and want your own let me know and I’ll keep my eyes peeled.

Kyoto

June 3rd, 2017

We’re in Kyoto now, speeding here yesterday on a bullet train. We spent the afternoon around the station area where there are several malls and lots to see.

We went up this tower and had a goosey gander. We were particularly taken by the mascot ‘Tawawa’ (geddit?); I’ll put one on your postcard!

Kyoto station has a department store in it with a super fancy food department. Even for someone that spent $60 to ride the bullet train for 11 minutes yesterday, $150 for a rockmelon seems excessive ?

Even though we’ve filled our cases to bursting we bought a bunch more stuff yesterday, from toys to books to food. How will we bring this home?

That’s KLS’s dinner, crab omelette over rice, at a restaurant in the station. No spaghetti photos today!