That picture shows Lac Sacacomie, and was taken from the terrace of our hotel. You can see the hotel itself in this next photo, if you look closely along the tree line above the lake:
We’re ‘up north’, probably the second most northern place we’ve ever been (Orkney is Scotland was our northernmost). We came up here as a rest between Montreal and Quebec City, and to give us a chance to see the Northern Lights. The drive to the hotel was through rural countryside until we hit the pine forests, at which point we reached some unpaved roads and signs warning of moose!
The hotel is a ‘spa’ hotel, and has a hot spring and sauna, as well as a wide range of activities, many of which are free for guests. It’s a massive log cabin building filled with stuffed animals including a moose, otter, caribou and this porcupine. Rooms are rustic, wood paneled, and short on luxuries like air-conditioning or even a TV (but as is obvious from me blogging, they do have wifi). It’s the sort of place you’d visit for a few days just to do nothing but relax by a beautiful lake and eat good food.
When we arrived we went for a hike along one of the many trails, which was more an overgrown road that what you may expect. This is because in winter the trails are used for snowmobiling or dogsledding, both of which are offered by the hotel. We didn’t see any large wildlife, but we saw a few birds and 35 (yes we counted) frogs! At one point we heard what sounded like growling and was probably a distant engine, but in the middle of the otherwise quiet woods it was momentarily disconcerting.
The above is the path down to the lake from the hotel, which is a fair descent. The path runs along a steep mountainside and has 129 steps, all of which were agony on the way back. The beach is nice, and there are ample free kayaks and canoes for guests to use on the glass-calm lake, as well as motorboats to rent if you want to go to the islands. Somehow you can even rent a seaplane for a sightseeing flight, and we saw it flying over yesterday.
There’s a… mystery about this place. The building seems simultaneously very old and very new, and the lack of signage is unusual to travelers used to hotels in places like Japan. For example we’ve explored the building and still don’t know where the spa is! Also no vending is strange, especially when rooms have no fridge and shops are a significant drive away. What is a guest to do if they need a drink after the bar closes? Some of this eeriness is likely due to the fact that all signage is in French and most of the staff don’t speak English, but it also feels as if some of the hotel policies are different from what we’re used to.
And last night when we went out to see the aurora there were people just standing in the hall and others sitting in a dark common room. Kristin said we may have inadvertently stayed in a ‘vampire hotel’ and perhaps she’s right!
As for the Northern Lights…
That’s what we saw. The terrace of the hotel afforded uninterrupted night sky viewing, and the haze from earlier in the day had burned off so we could see stars, but only stars. Kristin had downloaded an app to help us, and it reported our chance of seeing aurora at 0% unless we drove much further north (to Greenland). Ironically the lights have recently been viewable in Albany. Oh well, a goal that will survive for another day 🙂
We skipped dinner – which is to say that five ramen debacle detailed in the last entry was dinner – so it was good that the buffet breakfast was quite magnificent. It’s time to leave this strange hotel now and head back to civilization. We’ll never return here, but I think the trip was worth it just this once 🙂
