Himeji Castle

January 5th, 2023

Yesterday we took a day trip to Himeji, about an hour west of Kyoto via bullet train.

This was our first time riding a Hikari series train, which is slightly slower than the Nozomi we usually ride, and the (first class) cabin felt a little more modern.

The seats even had a heating option! Once again there were very few people in the reserved-class car, probably because the comfort level of normal seats is already very high.

We went to Himeji to visit the very famous castle, considered the best and most beautiful in Japan! It’s known as the ‘white heron castle’ so it was very appropriate that a white heron flew in and posed for the above photo!

Visitors can enter and climb the main keep to the very top and there’s a lot of historical info to read on the way. There are apparently 198 (steep!) steps between the six floors and the handrails are very important since the wood is slippery and you’re only wearing socks since shoes are prohibited.

That’s a view of Himeji city from the second highest floor. As with European castles the location was chosen to be easily defendable and the garrison (the main keep was mainly a fort) would have been able to see for miles in every direction.

There are other buildings to visit, including the residence of a princess built up on the battlements, and everything is presented very well and kept in immaculate condition. About every fifty years the castle undergoes extensive restoration, and we were both amazed to read that in the 1950’s it was entirely dismantled and rebuilt to repair the wooden internal structure. At that time they found inscriptions on some of the wooden beams made by the original builders over 350 years prior!

I’ve been to many castles over the years and Himeji was one of the best. The train trip was fun, the weather great and the castle both impressive and very pretty. It was a great day trip 🙂

Kiyomizu

January 4th, 2023

Yesterday we visited Kiyomizu Temple, one of the best-known temples in Japan and a very popular tourist destination. Even though we’d been to Kyoto thrice before, we’d never visited this place, which is a comment on how much there is to see in and around Kyoto.

The temple is hundreds of years old, and the famous verandah pictured above was built in 1633 and is all wood with no nails! Tradition states that if you jump off and fall the 15 meters and survive, your wish will come true. People used to actually do this, but it’s been prohibited for over 150 years now!

That’s a view from the verandah down into a courtyard below where water from a mountain stream flows into a small pond. Legend says that drinking this water also grants wishes. The lines were long when we got down there and we didn’t partake, but my wish would have been to find an S.H. Figuarts Zoffy figure in stock somewhere before we leave Japan 🙂

That’s a second verandah. The temple complex is large and spread across a mountainside overlooking Kyoto and has wonderful views. In spring with cherry blossoms in view this place would be beautiful!

Afterwards we lazily strolled the nearby shopping street with the endless crowds of Japanese who were visiting for hatsumode (visiting a shrine at new years to pray for good fortune). The shops sell all sorts of traditional souvenirs such as crackers and sweets and little ornaments, and it’s fun looking at it all. The above pic was taken outside one store, and is a cute reminder of the pandemic. Mask compliance here is incredibly high, and the few times we’ve seen anyone unmasked they are usually foreign tourists.

The afternoons activity was shopping, not to mention gatcha machine browsing and video gaming (more on that in a bit). We saw this display of companion robots (called Lovots) in an electronics store and they were adorable. At only $5000 plus $100/month for service they are designed to replace pets and are incredibly responsive. Text me if you want a video!

Today we’re going on a day trip. Check back tomorrow to see where!

Bamboo

January 3rd, 2023

Yesterday, bright and early, we visited the famous bamboo grove at Arashiyama. Twenty minutes (by train) west of Kyoto, this is a spot famous worldwide for the beauty of its bamboo.

The bamboo lines a path towards temples, and is much shorter than you may expect, with only a few photo-worthy stretches.

We went early since it becomes mobbed with tourists during the day, and photo ops become impossible. The drawback was that it was very cold – too cold for the clothing we have with us – and even the fog on my glasses stated to freeze!

As you can see the bamboo was extremely pretty! It was massively tall and I was puzzled by the lack of any immature sprouts. How often does this die and how does it renew itself? There was no information about this.

A beautiful location worth the visit. There’s lots of shops and eateries nearby, and even a monkey park, but we were there before any of it opened so did not visit.

Afterwards we did our laundry at a tiny laundromat before partaking in more shopping at a giant mall. While there we couldn’t resist this fukubukuro:

There was no hint as to the contents, but it was big and (only?) ¥3600 and sold from a shop that sold many curious and interesting/weird items so we took the gamble. And inside was…

Meat! Specifically a large meat-patterned pillow and towel, chopsticks, a sponge and an electric grill (which wouldn’t work in the US)!! What will we do with any of this?!? I’m sure I’ll think of something 🙂

To Kyoto

January 2nd, 2023

Yesterday we boarded a bullet train and headed to Kyoto, where we’ll spend the next five nights.

As always the trip was comfy (we rode first class) and super smooth and my ‘ekiben’ lunch (the usual port cutlet sandwich) was delicious:

As a bonus the weather was beautiful and we got probably the best view of Fuji we’ve ever had:

After we arrived we did a bit of shopping in the famous covered shopping streets not too far from the station:

And I couldn’t resist another ‘sugar coated apple’, this time served sliced in a cup. It was magnificent:

We’re staying in a fancy hotel here, right next to the station. It’s too fancy for rogues like us, but it’s very comfortable and we even have a patio with our own garden!

While we have some activities planned the mail goal of the Kyoto days is to relax to recharge for some final Tokyo madness. It’s much colder here (just above freezing in the mornings) so this will be easy. 🙂

Fukubukuro

January 1st, 2023

At the start of a new year, retailers in Japan traditionally sell Fukubukuro, which are ‘lucky bags’ full of random merchandise. They range in price from cheap to very expensive and while they can contain anything, they’re often used as a way to move unsold product. Naturally, we had to join the fun.

We headed to Akihabara yesterday to buy some, and saw them for sale at most retailers. Some of them were immensely popular, with very long lines stretching around the block, and all day long we saw people walking around carrying the distinctive red bags.

The above are some examples sold by a trading card shop in Akiba: Magic The Gathering fukubukuro ranging from ¥5000 (about $38) to ¥200,000 (~$1540!!?!). The contents are random!! The super-expensive one was a massive stuffed bag, but even then it’s a massive gamble.

We also saw a ‘TV’ fukubukuro for ~$2200 at a popular electronics retailer, which presumably ‘contained’ a television? I’ve read there are even more expensive ones sold across the country, and historically some stores have ‘seeded’ them with lavish items like expensive holidays or even cars.

The above shows a different type: a black suit! The only identifier is the color and size, and it costs >$100! Who buys this? We also saw fukubukuro sold from a seafood store, a cake shop, grocery stores and even Starbucks!

The above photo shows the three we bought, all from Akihabara anime shops. In total they cost ¥5000, or about $38. While we rarely open purchases made during travel (saving them for when we get home) we naturally had to make an exception this time, so let’s see what was inside!

The small flat one in the above pic seemed to suggest (according to google translate) that it contained anime goods, and indeed it did: 7 keychains, a business card holder and 4 acrylic stands. Not bad for under $15, until you realize this stuff is bottom-of-the-barrel trash from series no one cares about! It gave us a good laugh 🙂

The largest bag was an anime themed bag labeled ‘for women’, and considering it was the same price as the other one contained much more stuff! But once again, the quality is very low, with trash-tier clear files, key chains and badges making up the bulk. It also contained six copies of the same CD single, all with different cover art! We chuckled heartily as these pieces were removed one by one 🙂

And here are the contents of the 15-gatcha bag, which was only ~$6.60. A couple of keychains, a couple of tiny cars, a couple of figures and a lot of miniatures (including a mop). This is certainly an eclectic mix, and representative of the variety in machines today, and it’s hard to fault the value in this bag. That said, I never would have put a ¥100 coin in any of these machines so for me the value is meaningless. We laughed so hard at some of this we almost developed hernias!

Overall then: our fukubukuro contained trash, and I mean that literally since after the pics were taken we placed it all directly in the trash! But they were fun to open and gave us some belly laughs in the process, so it was a lose-win in the end.

But it’s worth noting that these are traditionally sold between January 1 and 3, so there’s still time to get more. Should we?

The above is a detailed pic of one of the gatcha miniatures we got: a credit card payment terminal (the card is removable). This entire thing is only about 2cm long with each button about 1 mm. Gives you an idea of the detail of these tiny gatcha miniatures!

And I’ll end today with this pic, which shows a few ‘random’ gatcha machines we also saw in Akiba today. I had a go at the Ultraman one (top left) and the completely random one (middle bottom). What did I get? I didn’t open them 😉

Oh and if you’re waiting for the post about the insanity of Akihabara, then I promise that one will come when we return here after our sojourn in Kyoto…