Shinjuku

June 14th, 2023

I visited the Tokyo Metropolitan Government building this morning. It has a free observatory on the 45th floor, and you know I like observatories!

The view wa clear enough (in some directions) when I was up there, but this wouldn’t last. By the time I descended and walked to the shopping district near the station (a few blocks from the tower) the skies had opened and the rain fell in sheets. I took shelter in the House of Grimace:

Incidentally the marks on my nose and left cheek are from a mask. I estimate about 50% of Japanese still wear masks outdoors, and even more do indoors or on trains. I’ve joined them (mostly out of respect) but I’ll be honest and say the humidity isn’t pleasant when you’re masked!

It was still raining after I finished lunch, so I went into Yodobashi Camera (the Shinjuku branch included about ten shops spread over several blocks) and took refuge – alone! – in an upper floor arcade where I played a card-based Ultraman game for about half an hour. This was blissful since I didn’t get much sleep last night (due to waking early for laundry) and the AC in the arcade was sweet relief from the humidity outside.

The rest of the day was shopping, with a focus on gacha machines and UFO catchers. As I’ve discussed before on this blog gacha’s are everywhere in Tokyo, and stumbling upon a sight like the above is hardly unusual. The variety beggars belief as well, and there’s something for everyone. Here’s some examples I saw today:

How about a weird ‘floor plan’ (?) gacha? Or a ‘calling bell’ that they suggest can be used to summon a pet? Or a mini cart and groceries? Or – and this one is incredible – recipes handwritten by a handsome young man? (Yes this is correct; KLS and I purchased something similar in January which was a small piece of paper with a message about hard work handwritten on it!)

Or you could get a mini appliance, a device that (claims to) protect you from EM radiation, a mini-zip line or even a sangria mascot. This is just 8 of hundreds of different machines I’ve seen this trip, and not even the most unusual. I’m not putting the truly crazy stuff here so as not to spoil souvenirs for KLS ๐Ÿ™‚

I’ve been unlucky with crane games this trip, and not for lack of trying. The prizes range from trash (mini food items that cost less to buy than you pay trying to win them) to exceptional (large and very detailed anime figurines) but the machines remain frustratingly difficult and that’s not even accounting for sunk-cost fallacy which all-too-often rears its head.

I’ve become good at spotting the ‘avalanche’ machines ready to pay out, and so far I’m on a 100% win streak! The above prize I’ll give to a student (who’s name is Kirby), but some of the other wins will be pride of place on shelves at home for many years.

The rain didn’t last long this morning but it dumped enough water to make the afternoon shockingly humid. Today was probably the most strenuous day of this trip so far, and I even saw Japanese struggling with the humidity. But I managed – due to imbibing vast quantities of water – and ultimately had an enjoyable day of looking and shopping and eating. Tomorrow will be more of the same ๐Ÿ™‚

Shinagawa

June 13th, 2023

I awoke ruined and a shell of my former self. I suspected a ‘light activity’ was needed, and when I stepped out to get some breakfast the incredibly humidity only affirmed this suspicion. So I went to see some fish!

I visited Maxell Aqua Park in Shinagawa, a district of Tokyo about a half hour south of my hotel. This (not really an?) aquarium has various marine animals on display but is mostly known for its dolphin show. Specific to my situation today, it was entirely indoors and the air conditioning was wonderful!

The usual types of fish and other sea life was to be seen, and most of the displays were creative and clean. They had a wonderful jellyfish section as well as a sort of pseudo amazon environment which had capybara and the biggest arowana I’ve ever seen (bigger than me)!

Unfortunately… some of the enclosures left a lot to be desired. As an entirely indoor facility the question arises whether these animals (such as the capybaras or seal) ever see sunlight, much less plants, and my enjoyment in seeing them was undoubtedly affected by my wish they were free. It’s a difficult quandary of all zoos: it’s fun to see the animals, but is it fun for them?

The above pic shows a penguin repeatedly trying to hop onto the leg of a cleaner. She (the cleaner) had to hold her arm to stop the penguin but once or twice the little bird got through. I think it thought the employee was its mum? It was endearing to watch, and it was obvious the cleaner was tolerant and careful in her handling of the excitable bird. I read online this park is known for the care it shows for its animals; I just wish the enclosures were more natural.

The main attraction was the dolphin show, which was about 20 minutes long and featured five dolphins of different species (one was gigantic… was it even a dolphin?) doing impressive tricks with their trainers. The auditorium was impressive and could seat over 1000, although half or them would be in the splash zone… and these dolphins were relentless about splashing people!

I greatly enjoyed this show. Once again I was hesitant at first since I’d rather they had the entire ocean as their playground, but as performers they were flawless and they seemed to have fun as they jumped to incredible heights and dazzled the crowd with their antics. Maxell Aqua Park wasn’t the biggest aquarium I’ve ever visited, and it certainly wasn’t the best, but the dolphin show alone made it worthwhile.

Shinawaga isn’t too far away by train from a famous covered shopping street, so after the Aqua Park I headed over to the ‘Palm’ arcade for some lunch. At nearly 600m long, this is a once street converted to a pedestrian arcade and now roofed. There’s loads of shops and restaurants, and many are of the ‘mom and pop’ style, so it’s very different from the usual mall.

It also had a ‘Kura Sushi’, which is the sushi conveyor belt restaurant KLS and I ate at in Kyoto earlier this year. This is the place where you get a chance at a prize from a gacha machine for each five plates you eat, and naturally I wanted to try again to win a prize.

Long story short: I didn’t win and walked out stuffed with shrimp tempura sushi! It was fantastically delicious (and very inexpensive) but I still don’t know what’s in the capsules if you win a prize!

It was a low impact but fun day (and I didn’t mention the post-dinner Akiba shopping). I successfully recharged while dodging the heat and humidity, and I’m all set to go go go again tomorrow ๐Ÿ™‚

Akihabara

June 12th, 2023

The very reason I booked a hotel in Akihabara was to maximize the shopping potential of this place. On every previous visit to Akihabara, bags would fill, bodies would tire, and senses would be overwhelmed. Inevitably this would mean a return to the hotel to refresh, but since my hotel is right here this means I can have a rest stop and then head right back out into the wonderland. Yesterday that’s exactly what I did.

The rain was pervasive, but this only served to diminish the crowds (somewhat) and didn’t bother me. I ended up shopping for about 8.5 hours, visiting dozens and dozens of stores including some on higher levels of buildings that were only accessible by stairs.

It was, for me, a close to perfect day. I saw a lot of wide-eyed tourists standing around overwhelmed and thought “That was me over 20 years ago.” Now I’m an old hand, and navigate these streets like a local. Even the maids reached out to me, and they usually ignore foreigners ๐Ÿ™‚

So what did I buy? Lots of books, games, gacha toys, trading cards and other otaku stuff. Wonderful things in other words, including some that were special, and a few that are even ‘holy grail’ items for my collections. One thing in particular almost made me pass out with surprise when I saw it, and I’m sure I set some sort of speed record grabbing it off the shelf! In time I’m sure you’ll see them all on this very blog. Today I’ll showcase – as I do – some of the items I didn’t buy ๐Ÿ™‚

Let’s start with the above. I haven’t seen an actual Black Lotus (the most expensive Magic The Gathering card) in many years, and I’m pretty sure I’ve never seen an Alpha version. And yet yesterday I could have just bought one for about $111,000. Or an Alpha booster pack for about $35,000! The same store had dozens of ‘power’ and dual lands, and even sealed boxes of older sets. Incredible!

Speaking of cards, I also saw the above Pokemon card for about $45k. I don’t know much about the Pokรฉmon card game, but a quick search showed this was a card depicting the Pokรฉmon company president that he gave out to friends. As few as 30 exist!

One store I went into had an exhibition of superbly build model kits and the above stood above all of them in my opinion. The artist used some sort of reflective metallic paint that seemed to change colour depending on the viewing angle. It was absolutely beautiful, and his comment (on the card) which read: “I did my best.” may be the understatement of the year!

Quick, someone tell Jonathon Ross there’s a boxed Micronaut for sale at Mandarake ๐Ÿ˜‰

The retro game market has exploded these past few years, which is one of several reasons I’ve sold half my collection. And yet it’s still extraordinary to walk into a shop and see things like this Famicom (NES) cart for ~$2500. I’m always looking for Wizardry games (it’s the series I collect) and they’ve become rare now, but I saw cart-only examples of games (I own mint-in-box) for hundreds yesterday. I’m happy I was into this stuff decades ago.

Speaking of games I was finally able to visit Beep, a small retro game store with a focus on old Japanese PCs and arcade games. It was an amazing dungeon of treasures, and had a vast array of (working!) old Japanese home computers for sale, as well as dozens of arcade boards and even modern tech to play them on your TV. They had a library of old game guides (which I bought a few books from) and they also had these two items I didn’t buy:

Both of these date to the late 1980s and were for the Wizardry tabletop RPG (like D&D). At over $300 for the metal dragon figure and $200 for the ‘module’ you’d need deep pockets indeed to shell out for this pair. Still it was a treat to see an example of a Wizardry RPG book, which I’d never seen before.

I had breakfast, lunch and dinner in Akiba yesterday (all at fine dining establishment, I assure you) and took frequent breaks in air-conditioned arcades and drunk lots of water. I even had two rest stops back at my hotel. But at the end of the day I was still absolutely ruined which is why this blog entry waited for this morning. I didn’t visit every shop I planned to, nor buy everything I wanted to, so I’ll absolutely be back to Akihabara this trip. Look forward to another post like this one in a few days ๐Ÿ™‚

Tsukiji & Shibuya

June 11th, 2023

I headed out early today since I wanted to be at Tsukiji before 9 am. This is the Tokyo district famous for its fish markets (and seafood restaurants) but I was going for a different reason.

After I exited the subway I followed a small crowd through the streets until we saw signs of a festival being set up. At the end of the stalls there was a shrine, and in this shrine giant lion heads were on display:

Today was the day of the Shishi Matsuri (Lion Dance Festival), which is only held every three years. The festival involves a portable shrine being carried all around the town for several hours. This in itself is not unusual – it’s a common type of festival here and Kristin and I have seen them before in the past – but what makes this one special is that the portable shrine is accompanied by giant lions!

Except today… it wasn’t ๐Ÿ™‚

I suspect – and heard others speculating – that the lack of lion dancing was due to the rain. Perhaps the lion heads are fragile or not waterproof? Either way I didn’t see them today. But the shrine parade itself was spectacular enough, and I was quite taken by the little carriage that led it, in which were seated some elderly musicians playing traditional Japanese festival music:

It was a fun thing to see and the enthusiasm of the throng carrying the shrine was infectious. I’m glad I went to check it out.

Afterwards I headed over (via two trains) to Shibuya for some shopping. Since it was still early when I arrived the crowds weren’t too bad (as you can see above) but several hours later when I left they were insane. Shibuya is popular with the younger crowd, and it’s obviously the place to be seen on a weekend!

After a healthy and delicious lunch I looked in a wealth of shops for the usual stuff. I bought too many postcards (watch your mailboxes; you’re all getting extras), stickers, gacha toys, books and games. I also spent a lot of time in Mandarake – one of my favourite shops on Earth – and while I didn’t buy anything once again I loved just looking at the rarities in the cases. Such as a $3000 Tarzan comic:

Or a $1000+ Ultraman record (from almost 60 years ago):

Or even a $35000+ (yes, thirty five grand) Yu-Gi-Oh card:

Only 500 of these solid gold cards exist. I doubt I’ll ever see one again!

These busts of Rem and Ram were almost life-sized and in a gacha machine shop. This was the last place I visited in Shibuya and I was very worn out when I finally got back to the hotel. An early dinner, a hot bath, and my energy had returned! The options were write postcards and watch TV, or head to the Akihabara game centers just a hop and a skip from my room?

You can guess which one I picked…. but let’s save Akiba for tomorrows entry ๐Ÿ˜‰

Kawagoe (Addition)

June 10th, 2023

The ‘fishing’ shrine from yesterday also had an extraordinary ‘tunnel’ of ema, which are wooden charms you (buy and) write wishes or prayers on. Traditionally these are hung for the god to take notice, and eventually burned in rituals.

These are common at all shrines, but the quantity I saw yesterday was incredible. The above pic was taken maybe halfway along the tunnel, so there’s at least as many behind me.

For comparison the Yatagarasu shrine had only a couple of hundred hanging:

I didn’t do one by the way. Maybe I should?