Beware Of Hawks

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Legend has it that Enoshima Island, on the coast about 80 minutes south of Tokyo, was the summer palace of a trio of female gods. Now it happily exists as a tourist destination, and if any of you ever plan on going to Japan put this place very high on your list of sights to see.

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Such are the sights of the three shrines (and surroundings) on Enoshima.

Although an island, Enoshima is connected to the Shonan mainland by a landbridge (about a 5 minute walk). The island is hardly flat, and to fully explore you need to be able to navigate a great many stairs. After Takao, we were a little concerned. But we prevailed!

dsc00098.jpg dsc01302.jpg < No!! More stairs?!?!

About halfway up the island there is a new ‘attraction’ at one of the shrines, a large loop made of reeds, which apparently needs to be walked through in a particular pattern to ensure luck?

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Of course I had to do this, and the results were astounding as this video shows!

There’s also a ‘love-love’ shrine halfway up, with the requisite charms available for sale…

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On one of these plaques, I found a little red tick-spider thingy:

dsc01315.jpg < Tick-Spider Thingy

And, as she does, KLS made me pose like a fool in front of the demon statues:

dsc00144.jpg dsc00146.jpg < Unstoppable?

At the summit there is a little collection of restaurants and an arcade with ancient games. There is also an octopus-flattening shop:

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She takes two complete octopi (about 10 cm in length each) and places them onto a large hot press, then closes the top and ratchets it down with a crank. After a minute or so she opens it and removes a nice crispy octopus disc like you can see in the second picture. The poor things are flattened utterly into a giant chip! (Yes, they are dead first by the way)

The path continues to the other side of the mountain/island, down some steps and onto a rocky shelf behind. This place is popular with fishermen, who cast into the rough waters behind the island. It’s also home to a most unusual form of crustacean.

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They vary in size up to about 5 cm (the one in the photo was about 3.5), move quickly and – as you can see – resemble pillbugs. They seem to be land-dwelling things, and KLS was apalled by their very existence. The rocks behind enoshima are home to large colonies of them, and they scuttle away like cockroaches when someone approaches. Interesting little guys they are…

Getting back off the island required climbing the hundreds of steps we took down to the rocks, which was a torturous and near soul-destroying ordeal. But (of course) we made it (helped by a delicious ice cream) and happily, on the way off, found one of our favourite Japanese stores – the ‘tiny glass animal shop’:

dsc01372.jpg < ZOMG!

Some of you reading this can look forward to a trinket from this place…

Getting to Enoshima in the first place requires riding the famous Enodan train line from Kamakura station, which we had done in the morning and did again on the way back in the afternoon.

dsc01374.jpg dsc01266.jpg < Enoden Line

For JBF’s benefit, a video of the Enoden line in action! (Yes, I know I mislabelled the video… I’m tired!)

We didn’t really do much in Kamakura (home of Japan’s most famous Buddha statue) except check out the souvenir shops on the walk to the Enoden station. One of them was home to a stunning selection of (fake) weaponry, including such gems as ‘Staff Of Saruman’, ‘Chaos Sword Odin’, and a highly detailed magic book (for those amongst us disinclined to wield a bladed weapon):

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Two food shots…

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…and a me sleeping on the train shot…

dsc00205.jpg < Not fake!

…leads me to this striking image (care of KLS):

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The legendary Enoshima Uzumaki spider perhaps? This web was only a centimeter or so in diameter, and hidden under a leaf as it was, extremely difficult to photograph (my camera simply wouldn’t focus on it). I poked around a bit for the owner with no luck. I wonder if it was as beautiful as it’s creation?

Oh yes, we saw a squirrel! Our first Japanese squirrel! But that can wait for another post…

Acrosatan

The title is the name of a monster from an old Ultraman series, a tiny model kit of which we saw today in a retro toy store in Akihabara. I don’t remember the cost, although it was probably low (under $20). However the Mandarake in Akihabara sold a Y2,100,000, approximately 20cm tall vinyl toy of another Ultraman monster, still bagged and in great condition. That’s US$21,000 approximately. Even for an unopened toy from more than 30 years ago that seems a tad steep 🙂

Akihabara is where the otaku (maniac fans) go for all their manga, anime, games and toys. It’s also the best place in Tokyo to buy electronics, play video games, or eat at maid cafes 🙂

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The ‘big’ franchises these days are Monster Hunter (both the games and the merchandise), which is massive and featured in every store; Neon Genesis Evangelion (yes, even after almost 20 years the franchise is as strong as ever, bolstered by the recent films) and Queens Blade (the series of ecchi gamebooks has spawned a mini merchandising empire).

We checked all the major shops yesterday, and most of the minors, paying particular attention to the figure stores and the game stores. I managed to find the latest volumes of Guyver and Bastard!!, and picked up a Monster Hunter artbook and a slew of TCG cards from such series as Duel Masters (the 52nd expansion just came out!?!), Monster Hunter & Queens Blade (yes every big franchise gets a TCG…)

No Railfan yet Jim, and you can bet we’re looking everywhere. We’ve even discovered there are three games in the series (Japan, Korea and amazingly Chicago!) but the PS3 sections in stores are tiny and the used PS3 sections are tinier still.

In fact game stores are mostly about DS and Wii these days (unsurprisingly), with the next biggest section being PSP. PS2 still has a healthy following, but 360 sections are small and, as I said, PS3 sections so tiny they are hard to find. This will all change in time though, as the system is picking up steam. Not to mention the 800 lb gorilla of FF13 about to be released.

Even so, in most game stores the section of shelves devoted to advertising the upcoming release of Monster Hunter 3 on Wii is typically bigger than the entire PS3 sections!

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Above left is a maid, who was handing out fliers advertising the maid cafe you can see in the middle photo. On the right is a shot of a billboard used to advertise all the maid cafes just in the Akihabara region. What was a novelty when we were here in 2006 has become a local tourist attraction, and as you can see there are a great many cafes now. Basically they are (apparently) overpriced restaurants serving average quality food, the attraction of which is the waitresses all dress in maid outfits.

dsc01188.jpg < In Animate

The above was taken (on the sly) on the 5th or 6th floor of Animate (one of the mega otaku shops) and shows just the maid outfits they sell for cosplay. The professionally made Bleach outfits ($100 and up) were much more impressive, but as they were next to the counter I couldn’t get a shot due to the no photography rule 🙂

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A couple more random Akiba shots. Once again, I’m guessing AW is boggling at the fact that you can just find gashapon out on the streets here. Put it this way – there are so many in just the few blocks of Akihabara, they have to put some out on the street!

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In Japan, ninja slice kebab meat.
In Japan, some drinks are bionic.
In Japan, well I’ll let you work out this photo 🙂

We actually walked to Akihabara via Ueno, and spent some time in the park before most people were up.

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This next shot is of the two statues outside Ueno Zoo entrance, overgrown with vines. Can you identify the two animals?

dsc01176.jpg < What are these?

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When I review the days shots, especially the ones KLS loves to take of me eating, I’m always struck by how it seems as if I had posed or hammed it up for the camera. The rightmost shot (dinner) is an ‘American Dog’ (which was eaten cold, but was actually decent). The middle shot though is more interesting, since it was a piece of chicken at KFC. And it was great. Here’s proof:

dsc01184.jpg < Mmmmmmmmm

I bet most of you will like this video though!

And what better way to end todays entry that this way?

dsc00018.jpg < Lest you forget

Verschwende deine Jugend (aka The Arcade Post)

Today in Akihabara (you can read more about our day’s events tomorrow, this post is all about video games), I sat down to play Death Smiles on the 5th floor of a Taito game arcade. Next to me was a Japanese man playing DoDonpachi Dai Fukkatsu, the best ‘bullet hell’ shooter ever made.

He was a savant. He may have been, and I swear I am not exaggerating here, the single best arcade gamer I have ever personally witnessed playing. His ability to dodge bullets was borderline supernatural. He did things I would not have believed a human could do had I not witnessed it. To understand: a ‘bullet hell’ shooting game is one in which the challenge is based not just around destroying the enemies, but also avoiding the seemingly unavoidable curtains of bullets they shoot your way. Not to go into too fine a detail, but success in the game results from practice, memorization, complete understanding of ‘hitboxes’ and awesome, just awesome amounts of skill. He demonstrated all these things in a way only a true master could.

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The shot on the left is me playing, but you can see his hands and his game to my left. The rightmost shots were taken by KLS to try to show the sorts of obstacles he was seemingly easily overcoming. To watch him dodge pixel-by-pixel through these clusters of bullets was awe-inspiring, and I felt very lucky to have had the opportunity.

In the end he beat the game on a single credit. I’ll bet their are only a handful of people on this entire planet that could do that…

The arcades in Japan are going as strong as ever, but they are adapting with the times. Conventional, single-cabinet games are relatively uncommon, usually relegated to a half of a floor or so of the five to eight story mega-arcades that are common in areas such as Ueno or Akihabara. In a typical arcade of this size, each floor will usually hold a particular type of game:
– one floor will be entirely UFO catcher machines (aka ‘claw machines’). This is almost always the entry level of the arcade.
– one will be entirely ‘Print Club’ sticker-making booths
– one will be dedicated to ticket redemption machines, which themselves run the gamut from RPG-like quiz games to things like Gallileo I showed the other day.
– one floor will be large scale linked competitive games, like Star Horse or Football Manager. The biggest arcades will have 10 or more consoles linked to a gigantic screen for such games.
– one floor will be dedicated to magnetic card based games, such as the various MahJong games or SquareEnix’s latest game Lord Of Vermillion
– an entire floor will usually be dedicated to fighting games. Popular titles not include SF4, VF5, Tekken 6 and the various Gundam battle games. One arcade I was in today had no less than 12 linked Street Fighter 4 cabinets. Players can save their stats onto a magnetic card and reuse it every time they play (this is very common for many games here)
– one floor will contain old school cabinet games, including retro games (which most of these are these days). Very, very few games of this type continue to be made. The most recent one – Death Smiles 2 – has even been distributed free to arcades to get them to stock it. In the mega-arcades, retro games are increasingly rare and if they are present are almost always shooters (including bullet hell ones by Cave or any of the games from the Metal Slug series)
These arcades are astounding, and it’s very hard to describe to a video game fan just how amazing they are to visit without actually going to one. It’s particularly heart-wrenching for me because they simply don’t exist in America any more – not even tiny ones with a half-dozen games. So visiting arcades is one of several things about Japan I really enjoy, and I’ve been trying to do it as much as possible this trip.

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The above sequence is designed to be viewed in order from left to right. As you do, imagine 2 seconds in real time passing between each image. That’s about how long my game of Gals Panic S2 lasted 🙂  (To the two of you wondering, this was an anime style Gals Panic, not a bad-digitized nudie game style)

dsc00024.jpg < Half-Life

Western PC games do notoriously poorly in Japan, so Valve had an idea to release Half-Life 2 in arcades over here. The result is what you see above, and was more ‘interesting’ to play than ‘entertaining’. My feeling is it was a bit of a failure, especially since I’ve only seen it in one arcade so far. (This makes me wonder where these large dedicated cabinet machines go when the arcades no longer want them…)

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The above is a redemption game that simulates the classic Japanese fair game of catching goldfish from a pool using a tiny net. The real thing is a diversion for children (the net is made of paper, so catching the fish is harder than it looks since the paper will break if you move it too quickly), but this version seemed more appreciated by the same types that are content to waste their lives on Pachinko!

dsc00484.jpg < Gundam

The above is a shot of a Gundam ‘pod’ cabinet. When you get inside it closes, completely encapsulating you inside. Multiple wrap-around screens attempt to make it seem like you are actually piloting a Gundam robot. You then fight others in a 3D action game. The big arcades have up to a dozen of these cabinets as well as a large screen on which those not playing can watch the fights in real-time on a tactical map. The pods are linked all over Japan, so even if no-one is playing at the arcade you can see how they fights are going. Basically it’s a persistent, large scale massively multiplayer Gundam FPS that you play in these amazing pods at the arcade. In fact it is so impressive I’m somewhat pretending it doesn’t exist because it makes me sad such tech is Japan-only…

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Random shots of random games. The leftmost shows the nice Street Fighter IV cabinet, which I don’t think made it’s way out of Japan.

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The title of this entry (‘Waste Your Youth’) is a pun – arcades here are not the sole domain of the young. Quite the contrary actually. Children have their Wii’s and their DS’s – arcades here are for adults. The above three games are those typically played by middle-aged ‘salary men’ on their way home from work. The leftmost is a magnetic card based strategy game. You buy cards from a vending machine and create a deck to play with. The surface in front of the screen reads the cards in real time so you actually control the gameplay simply by moving the cards around. This tech was cutting edge when we were here in 2006 but many machines utilize it now. The middle shot is of a Football (soccer) game. Each player takes one of the chairs you can see, and has his own screen on which he controls the actions of his team. This is another game that uses cards that are purchased separately, and in many arcades I’ve seen every chair being used by older male players that are obviously enjoying managing their teams to presumed victory. The rightmost image is an even bigger redemption game than Galileo, and is another absurdly complex take on the old ‘knock tokens into a bin by throwing other tokens at them’ genre.

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The Hummer game. Sega’s latest arcade racer, which I believe only came out a few weeks ago. BS would cry if he saw how detailed the graphics were 🙂

We have yet to visit Ikebukuro, which has a couple of mega-arcades itself. I also plan on spending more than a few more hours in the arcades in Ueno, so expect a few more arcade images before the end of this trip!